Killarney is famous for its beautiful lakes, near the Kerry mountains and dramatic sea coast. We had only two gloomy days on our whole trip, but decided to set off in the morning on a hop-on-hop-off bus to see some of the sights. You'll notice we are not going in the car. While it was convenient, if hair-raising, in getting from one city to another, I did not feel up to the task of sight-seeing in it. I am sure I would not have seen any sights! Plus, there is nothing like a tour bus guide for fun facts. This ride, on the top of a open tour bus, was the only time I really needed my windbreaker on the trip. 
Kerry gets its name from Ciarrai (the people of Ciar), a leader of the of the pre-Gaelic tribe who settled in the area. We were told that Ciar was the son of Pictish Queen Maeve who may be more legend than fact. In any case, Kerry was settled c. 4000 BC, by people thought to have sailed up the Atlantic coast from what is now Spain. Many became miners and the earliest copper mines were worked up to 1840s. It was also the last part of Ireland to fall to the English in the invasion by Oliver Cromwell in the 1640s. More about Kerry's rocky terrain and general discomfort for the English a bit later.
After careening around the streets of Killarney, we arrived at Ross Castle which sits on the edge of Killarney's lower lake and was built by O'Donoghue Mór in the 15th century. Legend has it that O'Donoghue still exists in a deep slumber under the waters of Lough Leane. On the first morning of May every seven years he rises from the lake on his magnificent white horse and circles the lake. Anyone catching a glimpse of him is said to be assured of good fortune for the rest of their lives. Ross Castle was the last stronghold in Munster to hold out against Cromwell. It was eventually taken in 1652. (The five kingdoms of Ireland, later called provinces: Munster, Ulster Connaught, Leinster and Meath. Meath was later dissolved with parts going to Leinster and Ulster.)
Our next stop was Torc Waterfall below Torc Mountain. We had a nice short hike up to the falls, but I was most struck by the virtual rain forest on the way up. The moss clinging to the trees and stones was a surreal brilliant green because of the spray from the falls.
We drove on to Muckross House and its beautiful gardens. We visited in early April, so it was not in full bloom, but was still an imposing and enviable estate. Built in 1843 by Henry Arthur Herbert the house was lost to him due to debts after embellishments he ordered in advance of a visit by Queen Victoria in 1861. He pined the rest of his life, but was so detested by the locals for his mistreatment during and after his heyday, they got revenge when he was buried.
According to our bus drivers, he had asked for permission to be buried on the Muckross property. This was granted and he was to be buried upright facing Muckross House so he could gaze upon it for all eternity. After the funeral service, when the family and guests had repaired to a local hostelry for refreshments, men paid to cover Henry with sod lifted the coffin from the newly dug grave and replaced it upside down and backward "so his arse faces Muckross for all eternity ".
In 1932 Muckross was presented by to the Irish nation. It thus became the first National Park in the Republic of Ireland and formed the basis of the present day Killarney National Park.
Well,
he finally saved up enough to buy a bodhran, then learned the penny whistle and finally built a set of Uilleann pipes. (See an earlier post) He was dedicated and now plays all around New England. But Eamon remembered that "He was always there. Whenever I turned around, there he was."Eamon moved back to his home town of Mountcollins near Killarney and is making music regularly and teaching all over the place. We had a lovely chat. He's a real gentleman.
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