The view above is Ballinskellig Bay, County Kerry.
Fish for breakfast! I call that really civilized. Yes, many of you know that my idea of fun when traveling is to eat as many piles of bacon as humanly possible. For those of you who don't know me that well, be assured we do not buy or cook bacon at home. It's a travel perk. But, really, with the the esoteric choices available, I only had bacon two or three, maybe four times. The gorgeous hake in this photo was very lightly breaded, fresh and delicious. I have enthused about the breakfasts in our hotels in Ireland in an earlier post and the International Hotel was right up there with the best for variety and excellence. These great breakfasts have meant we don't really need to eat again until dinner. Very handy, what with bus tours, etc. Not only that, they are free with the room.

We decided to see the Ring of Kerry, a 180 km drive around the southwesternmost (is that one word?) part of Ireland. We learned that all buses travel in a counter clockwise direction on this tour to be sure they don't encounter each other on the tiny winding roads! 14 of the 16 highest peaks in Ireland are within the Ring and we met with various types of weather along the way. I wish I had photos of the road heading up the mountains - it is hair-raising but hard to portray from inside the bus. Here's our driver and guide Michael of Deros Tours, the picture of Irish charm.

One of our first sights was the town of Killorglin (kill means 'churchyard' or 'woodland', by the way) home of King Puck. The Puck Fair, called Ireland's oldest celebration and one of the only remaining pagan festivals in Europe takes place there in August. The chosen goat is king for three days, people are his subjects. No goats to be seen there, but later on at Casey's Cove we encountered Seamus and his goat Puck (what else?). This tiny seaside village was where Charlie Chaplin spent his holidays later in his life.
Here's the sea at Casey's Cove - you can see the day was glowering at this point. One of my favorite types of view, in fact. Maybe that's why I like Scotland so much. The wind was whipping!
Here is a sight we missed because of the persistent fog on that part of our drive. Skellig Michael (not my photos, alas) sits in the Atlantic off Iveragh Peninsula. The claim is it was founded by Saint Fionán in the 6th century. The monastery he is said to have built was continually inhabited until the 12th century. The remains and the island were named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996.

Up, up we climbed into the wilds, wind and fog. While we held our breath at every hairpin turn, Michael regaled us with historical tidbits. I think I said in an earlier post that Kerry was the last part of Ireland to be conquered by Oliver Cromwell's troops in the invasion of 1649. After the Irish rebelled in 1841, the only outpost left in English hands was Dublin. This is all tied up with the Protestant-Catholic monarchical civil wars in England. Oliver Cromwell seized power with the backing of Parliament and after the Irish joined forces loyal to Charles II, exiled king of England, Cromwell began the reconquest of Ireland. It was a brutal assault whose many atrocities scarred relations between England and Ireland for centuries. One of the most horrific was the siege of Drogheda, but the whole affair unleashed slaughter, famine and plague on the population. If you are a history nerd like me, start here. I love Wikipedia as a quick, accessible starting point, but I always suggest further reading if a subject interests you.

The "Men of the West" held out for nearly three years, living and fighting in the Kerry mountains. I was struck by how harsh and barren so much of the landscape is. Craggy and dramatic, yes, but how did they live? You can't eat scenery, after all. I have never seen so many rocks in my life.

I know, I know. Pioneers and refugees through the ages have suffered the hardships of fleeing or being forced on to inhospitable lands. But the Irish who have lived on this small island for 6,000 years and formed a culture that is celebrated around the globe, seem like a unique case to me. Until late in the 20th century Ireland was the poorest country in western Europe. Battered by invaders from the very beginning and never left in peace until the end of The Troubles in the 1990s.
I like to blame religion. Christians arrived in the 5th century and coexisted with the Celts for about 600 years. The Catholic Church took strong root in Ireland and may be the most dominant cause of the unique Irish national psyche. There are countless examples of priests battling invaders alongside the warriors, starting with the Vikings and their influence and power over the populace was unquestioned for fourteen hundred years. While religion was undoubtedly a balm to the misery and degradation of the people during endless strife, the power of the Church kept many illiterate and backward far longer than in other parts of the western world. While most Irish identify as Catholic, the recent church scandals and emerging social liberality we see today have led to a new and vibrant sense of nationality in Ireland. Erin Go Bragh! (Ireland Forever!)
Here is the Daniel O'Connell Memorial Church in Cahersiveen, the only Catholic Church in Ireland dedicated to a lay person. Daniel O'Connell is best remembered for working tirelessly and peacefully to bring about Catholic emancipation in Ireland. (The English were in charge at that time, remember, and the Protestants subjugated the Catholics as much as possible). He fought for the rights of Irish Catholics to be represented in Parliament at London. He also tried to repeal the Act of Union, which combined Great Britain and Ireland.
I picked up a St. Bridget cross on the trip after admiring the one our driver Michael had on his windshield. They are made of reeds by locals and for sale at various crossroads along the route. It is now guarding our atheist household from fires.
I was raised as a Unitarian and am a rank unbeliever. But for some reason religion is one of my pet interests and I could go on endlessly, but I won't. Basta por hoy, as they say in Spain.
Let's go back to Queen Victoria.
In an earlier post I mentioned her visit to Killarney which bankrupted a local landowner who wanted to impress her with his estate. Our next stop was to a scenic overlook called The Ladies View. It's a pretty long drive by horse-drawn coach from Killarney and, it seems, Victoria and her ladies were only mildly impressed. My sister and I thought that was pretty funny, but we did admire the view (below). We asked Michael our tour guide what the ladies were wearing. He thought for a moment then said, "Black". We did laugh, but we are easily amused, after all.

After the tour we ate dinner at The Flesk, opened by an American and very popular. He was a Legionnaire and Americans visiting have sent the regalia of their American Legion posts back to Killarney for display, covering the walls of the restaurant.
I had salmon (white, not pink, but delicious) with Hollandaise, salad and 'mushy peas' with, yes, big fat Irish french fries; Barbara had lamb chops, mashed potatoes, mushrooms and onion rings. She said the potatoes in Ireland were the best she's ever had. Not the fries, though, too fat!

Back to the Grand for more music and fun. No dancing in this video, but a great tune. Feel free to skip the music in this blog, if it is not your cup of tea. My sister is not as big a fan as I am, so we compromised a number of times.
Next up: Bunratty!